Tokyo: Tempura Kondo Ginza. 近藤 天ぷら 銀座。

A famous and popular place for high quality tempura cuisine is without surprise to be found in the land of Ginza. I find myself coming back here just so that I could feel that history in every corner of the streets and sample authentic flavours determined chefs aspire to retain over the years.

We made a reservation about one month in advance and were thrilled that we were able to. It was packed with customers though on the day of our visit. (We visited the restaurant in the pre-Covid days.)

They have mostly counter seats as it aims to present you a visual show of their artful cooking procedure. Before tasting the dish presented right in front of you, you have taken the pleasure of seeing ingredients being prepared and fried. All that builds up in tantalising your taste bud and ends with a delightful note in your mouth.

We had the lunch set which included a selection of daily seafood and vegetables. There was also rice, pickles and miso soup included and draft beer to order on the side. At the end of the meal, there were tea and fruit. I was completely amazed by the simple deliciousness of the pear. So sweet and juicy, no doubt the best I’ve ever tasted. (In the head an image of highly priced fruit gifts in supermarkets emerged.)

All in all, if you do like tempura then this has to be on your list of places to visit at least once in a lifetime. It sounds banal I know but it is simply true.

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東京都中央区銀座5-5-13 坂口ビル9F

https://tempura-kondo.com/


 

Tokyo: とんかつ のもと家 Nomotoya Tonkatsu Minato

What is that particular type of food that you would not want to miss while in Japan? For us, tonkatsu would be one of them. We came to Shibakoen area this time in search of a good plate of deep-fried pork cutlets.

This tonkatsu house is situated on the second floor in an apartment-like building in a competitive dining area. The place is not big and can probably accommodate around 20 customers. It is not far from Tokyo Tower, either. So it would be convenient if you have plans to visit the tower. Or it would be also great if you are happy with just a photo of it as it is easy enough to take one from the main street nearby.

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東京都港区芝公園2-3-7 玉川ビル2F

https://hitosara.com/0006086570/?cid=gm_hp

https://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0118027001/

©diningfotolog

 

Tokyo: 吉澤 Yoshizawa Sukiyaki, Ginza

I’ve begun to go through all my photos as we are not allowed to go traveling in this ongoing lockdown, which leaves us with the only option – to imagine a journey or relive the journey you have taken previously.

Yes, in Ginza again… I’ve grown to love Ginza more every time I go to Tokyo not because of all the international big brands and luxury goods but because I am exceptionally attracted to its alleyways and hidden gourmet treasures. I did not know why I or we had decided to come here but I remembered passing by this sukiyaki place before thinking it was one of the Michelin-starred restaurants. So I managed to make a reservation for this recent trip only ended up coming here for dinner the day before the reservation. As part of the standard service, a lady would be responsible for cooking the sukiyaki and serving a portion for each guest. Staff here would likely fall in the category of being considered mature, which was not a bad thing as it would probably mean the restaurant has a long history and staff work together well. Indeed if you go to their website it does tell you the place was established in 1924 and has been providing its customers with quality meat as it is also a butcher. The lady was nice and held a conversation with us from time to time – good, I was able to practice my Japanese then. Food was alright and a bit heavily flavoured with soy-based sauce. Great to have a space to yourselves, which did come with a price as there was a surcharge for the table. They did specify in the first place but we were already sat down and just had to go with it. All in all, it was a great experience.

IMG_0822_pxr The tea served at the end of meal was so refreshing that I just couldn’t stop drinking it…

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http://www.ginza-yoshizawa.com

3 Chome-9-19 Ginza, Chuo City, Tokyo 104-0061日本

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Tokyo: すし屋 一柳 Sushiya Ichiyanagi, Ginza 

This is from my previous trip to Tokyo – seafood is one of my favourite meals and it would be unwise not to have nigiri or sashimi while in Japan at least in my opinion. All these sushi places listed on the Michelin guide require reservations in advance and nowadays you should be able to find online apps that provide booking services for oversea visitors. However, I prefer the old-fashioned way… but done in a modern way – I called them up using online apps for voice calls. Luckily, my basic Japanese language skills were just enough to deal with this.

On the day we were a little lost, which was not really uncommon in Ginza even though we had been there many times. It was almost packed when we arrived. The waiting staff were very friendly and we ordered a lunchtime set with sake. During our time in there, the chef spent most of the time chatting with a group of three men sitting at the corner, looking like they were probably regulars. The way he handled and fish and rice seemed very natural and without many movements of fingers nor undue attention, all of kneading and shaping actions being completed in just a few second. He would state clearly the name of the fish while placing the nigiri in front of you and that was all and only interaction we had. We did not mind that much as a matter of fact and felt rather relaxed while enjoying each nigiri. You would find a usual make-up in this lunch set menu, nothing too exciting but it was all up to standard.

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https://www.sushiya-ichiyanagi.com

東京都中央区銀座1-5-14 銀座コシミオンビル 1階

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Tokyo: Gyoza and Ramen

Anda Gyoza, a home-like eatery located near Yoyogi-uehara metro station, is listed on the Michelin Bib Gourmand since last year. Ginseng flavoured dumplings are not seen before nor elsewhere, but the taste is actually quite good. Do not forget to try the sauces offered on the table if you are one of us that love a bit of spiciness. I also particularly enjoy the soup of bits of seaweed. As there are not many seats you may need to be prepared to queue up at busy hours.

The ramen street is conveniently situated inside the Tokyo station and you can come here any time during the day for a quick meal. For it be thickly bone-based or spicy flavour, it all goes very well with thin noodles. Moreover, you have options of flavours from different prefectures and regions that are characteristic of local savour.

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Anda Gyoza

https://andagyoza.tumblr.com

Tokyo Ramen Street

https://www.tokyoeki-1bangai.co.jp/shop/?area=area3&floor=b1f&anchor=1

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Japan: food on the islands of Shikoku

Scenery was beautiful and towns were full of traditional lifestyles; however, there were not plenty of places for you to get replenished during the local art festival, Setouchi Triennale. During our couple of days of island hopping, we made do with food from convenience stores, which we were actually pretty happy with. We did manage to have two cooked meals, and they all happened to be curry.

ナカオク offered a cozy space inside a Japanese one-storey house and having curry just fit so well with vibe that aimed to make you feel at home. You could also have it as a set with a drink and cake at the end of your meal.

島キッチン was a curry house that offered a daily menu of house made curry. You had to order, pay and wait for your own food. Then you could enjoy it at the seats outside. It was more like an outdoor canteen.

Near the port on Teshima, you could buy locally made snacks and treats. Ice cream of local sugar flavour (wasanbon) was not a bad choice.

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Cafe Salon Naka-oku ナカオク

https://cafesalon-naka-oku.jimdofree.com

Shima Kitchen 島キッチン

http://www.shimakitchen.com

© diningfotolog

Tokyo: 百膳 Hyakuzen, Haneda Airport

If you have a bit of time after you have arrived at the airport and are feeling peckish, then why not go upstairs and choose a restaurant to have your first meal in Japan. I was pretty happy with what I had in a set. I had some pickles, creamy tofu as sides and eels stew with scrambled eggs to go with the rice. Plus a glass of Japanese beer, simply satisfying.

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http://www.hyakuzen.jp

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Tokyo: Lupin Ginza

We stumbled upon this bar while searching online for bars we could go to after dinner. It was pure luck that it was quite near where we had dinner and that we went in just in time to grasp the last two available seats. The whole place was simply mesmerising and could really take you back in time to Showa era. The staff were wearing nice uniforms same style in that time. It looked like there were a lot of regulars and we even started talking to one of them. They might not be serving the best cocktails but the vibe was a quintessential mix of Japanese and western feels that you could only find coexisting in the period of Showa era. Simply being there felt like a pleasant journey back in time.

 

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B1F, 5-5-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

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Tokyo: Kushi Tei Nihonbashi 串亭 コレド室町

It took us a while to find a place for dinner after doing a bit of shopping in Coredo Muromachi as most of the places were fully booked on a Friday evening. Luckily, we found this place specialising in kushiage – fried meat fillets and vegetables in skewers. We ordered a set meal and beer which came in a metal cup. It meant to keep the chill better and it did taste better somehow. The meal started with a plate of appetiser including creamy tofu, pickled cabbage. Then seafood options such as squids and prawns plus meat balls and seasonal vegetables were served in order. It had a lovely finish with pear and ice cream. The staff were particularly friendly and the restaurant stayed packed constantly. Do recommend this restaurant if you happen to be in the neighbourhood.

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東京都中央区日本橋室町2-2-1 コレド室町4階

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Tokyo: Meguro Sushi Taichi すし太一

We had the mood for some more sushi and nigiri but didn’t want to spend a fortune at a Michelin starred restaurant so we went for one that is recommended as Bib Gourmand. It was a bit difficult to get to though as it was located in the residential area and we had to change to a different train line which was not covered by Tokyo metro pass. The place was run by a friendly couple and there were only a few tables for four and the rest were counter seats. We went for a set course each – taichi and nigiri set. Portions were pretty generous and freshness exhumed in every dish. Thrilled to have a bowl of salmon roes with sea urchins on top – ultimate pleasure to one who loves the taste of the ocean. It felt somewhat more relaxed and intimate in some way I guess especially for locals as you could almost build a friendship with the owner. Overall, this is definitely very good value if you don’t mind a bit of travel.

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2-11-5 Nakacho, Meguro-ku, Tokyo

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